Ever tasted erigi hittu, sandagai, baccani mottai, or soppu? These traditional Badaga dishes from the Nilgiris are as unique as they are delicious, yet their authentic recipes are in need of preservation.
Erigi hittu or ragi balls; sandagai, a chutney made with garlic, tomatoes and a badaga spice mix; baccani mottai, an egg and mustard mix; and soppu, a dish made of spinach and potatoes — are all traditional Badaga dishes, says chef Suresh Belliraj, an educationist and a Badaga himself. “They are all made with locally sourced produce,” he adds.
Suresh will be one of those talking about and showcasing Badaga cuisine and culture at the Nilgiris Earth Festival 2024, which will be on at the Keystone Foundation campus and venues in Ooty from Dec 19 to Dec 22.
The concept of seasonal produce, says Ramya Reddy, one of the directors and organisers of the fest, connects one to sustainability and eco conservation. “In India we have an incredible diversity of fresh seasonal organic local produce which we are unaware about, and one of the ways to reduce your footprint is to eat sustainably. And it should be local not just to the country, but to the region and the area.” On the same lines, restoration ecologist Vasanth Bosco will conduct a walk through 100 rare and endangered native plant species of the Nilgiris Biosphere Reserve which have been grown as part of critical conservation efforts at the upstream ecology nursery in Ooty.
The fest will also have artisanal markets, performances and music by local indigenous communities. “Among the performances will be one by the Irula community from Pillur — a hunter-gatherer community ancient to the Nilgiris — who will play the kwol, a wind instrument, thambatta and pare, percussion instruments, besides dancing,” says Ramya.
A session with Devi Lakshmikutty of Bio Basics, and Shruti Tharayil of Forgotten Greens will throw light on the unique farming and foraging traditions and ancient agricultural practices of India. One of the best ways to incorporate foraged greens, say the duo, is to add them to dishes you already enjoy. Sessions on varieties of teas grown in the Nilgiris elaborate on how the taste differs according to the altitude.
Entry to the festival is free.